Sunday, September 10, 2006

Warm Ice Cream: A Taste Sensation

I have yet to meet someone who does not adore the cold, thick, velvety concoction known as Ice cream. The delectable treat of sweetened cream has an appealing texture as its light, airy consistency slowly melts on your tongue into a cool, gooey puddle. Once gently warmed, it becomes an explosion of intense flavor which tempts you to another bite. How can ice cream, a perfectly choreographed taste sensation, be improved upon? Methyl Cellulose might be the answer. Wylie Dufresne, chef of restaurant WD-50, teamed up with Ron Jolicoeur, Thomas Klimstra and Mark Jarrad. Together, they discovered a ground-breaking use for this plant based cellulose: the key ingredient in warm ice cream.

Methyl Cellulose is a tasteless, odorless thickener whose unique properties allow it to melt in cold water instead of hot. Thus, the ice cream will remain viscous at higher temperatures while maintaining its characteristic creamy texture. The question remains, though; why would anyone want to eat warm ice cream? The answer is two-fold. Firstly, taste becomes muted in cold and frozen media. Thus, this innovation will give a chef more control over flavor nuances and provide the eater with a more intense and complex experience. Secondly, the novel mouth-feel sensation of warm ice cream is simply intriguing. In his article entitled, "The Scoop on Ice Cream,” Lawrence E. Joseph explains that although vanilla is by far the most popular flavor of ice cream in America, it has “little fragrance.” This is “surprising since vanilla normally has such a distinctive scent.” This frustrating reality owes its foundation to the fact that chilliness numbs sensation.

In addition to being used as a thickener, Methyl Cellulose also acts as an emulsifier which allows two incompatible liquids to combine and remain as one. This attribute is indispensable in ice cream production as it provides a catalyst, allowing milk fat and water to become a stable, homogenous mixture.

Methyl Cellulose gives culinary creators permission to let imagination be their guide. Subtle tastes such as florals now have the opportunity to pack a punch. Chefs can also include stranger flavors to highlight more prominent ones with out deterring consumers. For instance, a delicate and faint basil essence can be added to a strong strawberry ice cream. Hopefully, though, this innovation will not be used on such novelties as garlic or lobster ice cream; two unappealing flavors which I have recently tried and thanked their flavor dulling chill!

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